"There are amazing advantages yet unfortunate market limitations with handmade materials and natural elements but we should accept the challenge to rethink our design processes because we should all aspire to transform the world with better quality & more responsible products that are kind to people and the planet and thus able by proxy to elevate all design and consumer communities with this thinking. "
Khādī or khaddar originated in India as a fully hand crafted textile, mostly made from natural fibers. It encompasses a lifestyle, a simple pure process of forming yarn and creating cloth by spinning and weaving by hand without electricity. The raw materials which may be cotton, silk, or wool are spun into threads on a spinning wheel called a charkha then made into a limited length of textile on a handloom.
Khadi production is integrated as a support + employment network for a majority of Indians in rural areas(70 % of the Artisans involved in the process of Khadi production are women as they can work independently to earn their living and add due support to their families.) Khadi production is labour-intensive yet production growth is sustainable by providing more employment with investment of very meager capital, especially in the rural areas. It enables full development of locally available raw materials and human resources. 90% of
AtelierOm + OMkhadi Collections are made in this beautiful integral textile.
OMkhadi partners with Indian KHADI spinners & weavers in the states of Gujarat, Bihar, W. Bengal, Orissa and Andhra Pradesh. We purchase all our base fabrics from local fairtrade cooperatives and organizations that are committed to the livelihoods of Artisans and Farmers and their families.
DABU MUDRESIST BLOCKPRINT:
DABU is a traditional technique of blockprinting using hand-carved blocks & a special mud liquid mix made daily. Any fabric printed with this mud is then dusted with a sawdust like powder to help fix the mud as it drys into the fabric.. The printed fabric is gently laid out under the hot sun for hours. The sun is very important in fixing the mud into the fabric. During Monsoon rainy season this work cannot be completed properly.
The dried fabric is then immersed in dye baths only until the mud starts to erode and then it is pulled out to dry in sun when it has dried and the colors have ripened into the fabrics it can be reprinted and again dyed or washed out to complete the textile.
These are the natural dyes that color our khadis based on ancient recipes.
indigo (blues) – vegetable(leaves)
kassis(grey browns)- mineral perosulfite
kalakassis(black) – metal(ferment of iron)
madder / alizarine(reds) – vegetable(root)
annar(mustard yellows) – vegetable(pomegranate)
and then mixtures cthat reate all shades of greens, browns, blues & blacks
Most natural dyes needs a pre - mordant soak process to develop and fix the true color it will finally become. Indigo does not need a mordant.
By repeat dying we get mixed & darker shades. NO natural dye is ever permanent. They must be cared for like Art. This means NO synthetic or natural bleaches or whiteners(baking soda is one!) never too much consistent sun exposure are all strong recommendations when taking care of these colors of nature. Dry cleaning or hand washing with recommended eco soaps( soap nuts, castille soaps or Dr. Bronner’s) and line drying are the ideal.